The best place to get your tourte aux blettes in Nice is La Fougasserie (5 Rue de la Poisonnerie, Vieux Nice, 06300). This bakery is just behind Cours Saleya. But if you fancy making your own, the recipe for savoury tourte aux blettes is below:
2 cups unbleached flour
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup water
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound swiss chard leaves, or substitute spinach
Salt and pepper to taste
3 large eggs
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
PREPARE THE PASTRY:
Combine the flour and salt in a medium-size bowl. Stir in the water, then the oil, mixing until thoroughly blended. Knead briefly. The dough will be very moist, much like a cookie dough. Press the dough into a 10 1/2-inch metal pie dish.
PREPARE THE FILLING:
Wash and dry the green leafy portion of the chard, discarding the center white stem. Roughly chop the leaves. Place the chard in a large, shallow frying pan and season with salt and pepper. Over low heat, wilt the chard and cook until most of the liquid has evaporated.
Combine the eggs and the cheese in a medium-size bowl and mix until thoroughly blended. Stir in the chard, mix well, then pour the vegetable mixture into the prepared tart tin.
Bake until the crust is golden and the chard mixture is firm and browned, about 40 minutes. Remove from the oven to cool. Serve at room temperature.